How to Exfoliate Your Skin: A Detailed Guide

Think of exfoliation as the deep-cleaning aspect of your skin care routine. Your daily cleanser helps rid the skin of the makeup, oil, and surface-level dirt that accumulate over the course of the day, while an exfoliator really gets in there and sloughs away dead skin cells that have piled up over time.

There are two types of exfoliators: physical exfoliators and chemical exfoliators. They both get the job done, but they go about it in different ways.

How Physical Exfoliators Work

Physical exfoliators work by physically removing the cells with visible scrubbing agents.

“Physical exfoliators contain finely ground grains or nuts that, when rubbed on the skin, help remove dead skin cells,” says Dr. Farris. You might exfoliate with these products using a cleansing brush, a mitt, an at-home microdermabrasion device, or just your fingertips. “It increases circulation and gives your skin a bit of a glow. It also leaves skin feeling smooth and silky,” she says.

She recommends U.SK Under Skin Perfect Rice Scrub (Farris is a board member for the line), Philosophy Microdelivery Exfoliating Facial Wash, and St. Ives Gentle Smoothing Oatmeal Scrub and Mask.

How Chemical Exfoliators Work

Chemical exfoliators, on the other hand, work by dissolving dead skin cells with acid, says Farris. There are two main acids to look for in chemical exfoliator products: alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs).

You can also use an exfoliating product that combines the two acids (Farris likes SkinMedica AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser).

Farris says the benefits of these chemicals go above and beyond exfoliation. “These multitaskers lighten pigmentation, reduce the appearance of pores, soften fine lines and wrinkles, and even improve breakouts,” she says.

Safe exfoliation methods depend on which exfoliator you choose to use, but regardless, a little goes a long way. Also, you don't want to exfoliate your skin every day (more on this later).

Using a Physical Exfoliator

If you're using a physical exfoliator, wet your face first, then apply a nickel-sized amount of the scrub. Massage it into your skin using circular motions, then rinse with water. Check your product's instructions, too. Some advise leaving the product on for 30 seconds or a minute before rinsing.

Using a Chemical Exfoliator

Chemical exfoliators, on the other hand, are generally leave-on treatments with no rinsing required unless it's a peel or a mask. Apply one or two pumps of the product to clean, dry skin, and you're set. Again, read your product's instructions to make sure you're using it properly.

Everyone else should be careful, too, as over-exfoliating can be harsh on the skin and cause irritation, says Zain Husain, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of New Jersey Dermatology and Aesthetics Center in Marlboro, New Jersey.

In short: Don't exfoliate every day. “Daily exfoliation can be quite irritating and drying to the skin,” says Dr. Husain. He recommends exfoliating once or twice per week, though he adds you can increase that frequency in the summer months when the air isn't as dry.

There isn't a clear threshold for how much exfoliation is too much, because it depends on your skin type and the exfoliator you're using. For example, Farris says that people with oily skin may be able to tolerate daily exfoliation. Be ready for some trial and error, and pay attention to how your skin responds. Is it red after exfoliation? Overly sensitive? Accompanied by a burning sensation? Those are signs you need to cut back.

Farris recommends that people with sensitive skin steer clear of cleansing brushes and exfoliating mitts when using physical exfoliators. Physical exfoliators that are too aggressive also come with the risk of creating micro tears in the skin that can result in trauma and possible infection.

• Exfoliating with a physical or chemical exfoliator is a worthwhile addition to your skin care routine if smoother, more glowing skin is your goal.
• Choose your exfoliator based on your skin type. If you struggle with acne, BHAs may be right for you, while AHAs are known for fighting signs of aging. Physical exfoliators can help address visible flakiness and rough patches on the skin.
• No matter which one you choose, be careful not to overdo it, since over-exfoliation can lead to redness and irritation.