Bakuchiol 101: A Detailed Guide

Want the perks of a retinoid — smoother, brighter skin — without the pitfalls of redness and irritation? You may need to look no further than bakuchiol, an ingredient first promoted by Korean beauty companies and now used more widely as consumers have become more interested in “clean beauty” products.

Bakuchiol may work similarly to boost collagen production, says S. Tyler Hollmig, MD, a dermatologist and the director of laser and cosmetic dermatology at the University of Texas at Austin's Dell Medical School. “While more studies are needed, I suspect that bakuchiol may improve skin tone and texture in a similar fashion to over-the-counter retinoids,” such as retinol or adapalene, he says.

“It's difficult to quantify the exact benefits on skin because studies have either been performed in vitro, meaning not on human skin but in a lab, or have been performed without perfect study design, which makes drawing firm conclusions difficult,” says Dr. Hollmig.

Because the skin-care industry has funded much of the current research on bakuchiol, there's also a risk of bias in this research, he adds.

Slows Aging

Reduces Signs of Sun Damage

Soothes Acne

Fights Infection

You can find bakuchiol in a wide variety of skin-care products, from serums to toners, says Lauren Penzi, MD, a dermatologist with the Medical Dermatology and Cosmetic Surgery Centers in New York.

• Serum This lighter, typically water-based product delivers a fast-absorbing, higher concentration of bakuchiol to your skin.
• Moisturizer Bakuchiol and skin hydration may be a winning combo, since both can help minimize fine lines — you'll usually apply a moisturizer as one of the last steps in your skin-care routine.

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• Oil Bakuchiol oil is similar to serum in that it's more highly concentrated, but it's a heavier, more moisturizing product.
• Eye Cream Eye cream with bakuchiol delivers moisture and fine line reduction specifically to this delicate skin.
• Toner Toner is a water-based primer that help prep your skin to better absorb any serums or moisturizers. In addition to bakuchiol, a toner might contain hyaluronic acid, lactic acid, witch hazel, or salicylic acid to smoothen and hydrate your skin.

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Most people find that bakuchiol comes with minimal side effects and their skin tolerates it more easily than a retinol or retinoid, says Dr. Penzi.

“As with any natural botanical topical product, there is a risk for irritant or allergic dermatitis, so those with sensitive or eczema-prone skin should exercise caution when starting,” says Penzi. People with rosacea should also start slow due to a small chance of causing flare-ups, she adds.

Signs of side effects could include the following:

• Irritation If you have sensitive skin, there's a small chance that you might experience redness and peeling when starting bakuchiol, though this side effect may be rare since bakuchiol also reduces inflammation.

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• Itching While this is rare, there are a couple of reports of people developing itchy skin while using bakuchiol. While one person had no history of skin issues, the other had a history of eczema.

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Does Bakuchiol React With Other Ingredients?

Bakuchiol doesn't have any known negative interactions with other skin-care ingredients, Penzi says. “It pairs nicely with hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, ceramides, peptides, and even retinols and exfoliants,” she adds.

While some consumers may turn to retinoid alternatives during pregnancy, Hollmig says that it's impossible to know whether bakuchiol is a safe choice, as there have not been any clinical trials concerning this issue.

Talk to your ob-gyn if you're pregnant and considering using a bakuchiol product.

If you want the age-defying benefits of retinoids with chances of fewer side effects, then bakuchiol could be for you. Here, we've laid out exactly how to incorporate bakuchiol into your skin-care routine.

When to Use Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol doesn't make your skin sensitive to sunlight, so you can use it morning or night, says Penzi. She recommends applying bakuchiol after a gentle cleanser. If you're using a bakuchiol serum, apply that and follow it up with a moisturizer or night cream of your choice.

If you're applying bakuchiol in the morning, remember to apply sunscreen as the last step of your morning skin-care routine, she adds.

How Often Should You Use Bakuchiol?

Penzi suggests doing an at-home patch test to check for potential irritation when trying a new bakuchiol product. Start by applying a small amount to your inner forearm for two or three nights in a row. “If no reaction occurs, then you should feel comfortable to start using the product on your face,” she says.

It can also be a good idea to introduce a new bakuchiol product into your skin-care routine gradually to avoid irritation. Consider starting with a lower concentration of bakuchiol, introducing it two or three nights per week and working your way up to every day from there, says Penzi.

• Bakuchiol could be a gentler way to reduce the appearance of fine lines, improve skin tone, and even help with acne if retinoids are too harsh for your skin.
• You'll usually find bakuchiol in serums and eye creams, but it's also an ingredient in moisturizers, oils, and cleansers.
• Research on bakuchiol is still evolving, and its safety has not been proven for use in pregnant women.
• Always introduce new skin-care products gradually to see how your skin responds.